Xemxija (pronounced shem-she-ya — it means "sunny" in Maltese) is a small coastal village on Malta's northern coast, sitting between St Paul's Bay and Mellieha. The name comes from the 18th-century Arrias Battery on the sunny side of the bay — and the village has lived up to it ever since. It's quieter than the big expat hubs of Sliema and St Julian's, more affordable, and surrounded by open countryside and sea views that most of Malta's urban areas can't offer.
If you're considering Xemxija as a place to live — or just wondering whether it's worth a visit — this guide covers everything: beaches, restaurants, transport links, rental prices, daily life, and the hidden historical gems that make this village genuinely unique.
Where is Xemxija?
Xemxija sits on the western side of St Paul's Bay, about 20 minutes north of Valletta by car. It's technically part of the St Paul's Bay local council but has its own distinct identity — quieter, greener, and more residential than the tourist-heavy Bugibba and Qawra areas nearby.
The village wraps around Xemxija Bay, with the hillside rising behind it towards Wardija and the countryside stretching north towards Mistra Bay and Mellieha. You can see Gozo from the higher points on a clear day.
Xemxija Bay and Beaches
Xemxija Bay
Xemxija Bay is a small, sheltered inlet with a thin strip of sand and rocky shoreline. It's not a beach you'd travel across Malta for — but if you live here, it's a genuine luxury. Morning swims, evening walks along the promenade, and waterfront restaurants make the bay the centre of daily life.
The water is calm and clear, making it popular with locals for swimming year-round. In summer, it's busy but never packed the way Sliema's beaches get.
Mistra Bay
A short walk north of Xemxija, Mistra Bay is a secluded spot surrounded by countryside. It's rocky rather than sandy but dramatically beautiful — cliffs, clear water, and almost no tourists. If you value peace and quiet, Mistra Bay alone is a reason to choose Xemxija.
Nearby beaches
- Golden Bay — 15 minutes by car, one of Malta's best sandy beaches
- Mellieha Bay — 10 minutes by car, Malta's largest sandy beach, shallow water
- Paradise Bay — 15 minutes, small but picturesque
Having these within a short drive is a significant advantage over living in central Malta.
The Xemxija Heritage Walk
This is Xemxija's best-kept secret — and one of the most unique walks in Malta. The Heritage Trail is a short loop (about 45-60 minutes) through the hillside behind the village, passing archaeological sites spanning thousands of years of history:
- Roman Road — a 2,000-year-old road still visible in the rock, used to transport salt and farm produce across the island
- Roman Apiaries — carved into the limestone, these are among the best-preserved Roman bee-keeping sites in the Mediterranean
- Cart Ruts — mysterious parallel grooves carved into the rock, their origin still debated by archaeologists
- Prehistoric Tombs — rock-hewn burial chambers dating back to the Temple period (3000-4000 BC)
- Bronze Age Grain Silo — a carved storage vessel in the rock
- Troglodyte Dwellings — caves where people lived well into historical times
- Roman Baths — remains of a bathing complex
The trail is free, unsigned, and almost never crowded. It's the kind of thing that makes Xemxija special — you're walking through 5,000 years of history with sea views, and most tourists never know it exists.
The Cold War Flour Mill
Also worth a visit: an underground flour mill built during the Cold War, hidden beneath Xemxija. It's been restored to working condition by the Maltese Industrial Heritage Foundation and is open to the public. It's a fascinating piece of hidden history — Malta prepared for nuclear war by building a flour mill inside a hill.
Restaurants and Eating Out
Xemxija has a good selection of restaurants and bars, mostly along the bayfront:
- Arrias Battery — housed in a 1715 fortification built by the Knights of St John, this restaurant serves Mediterranean food with panoramic sea views. Eating inside a 300-year-old battery is an experience unique to Xemxija.
- Waterfront restaurants — several fish restaurants and cafes line the promenade, with fresh seafood and harbour views
- Pizzerias and casual dining — enough variety for daily eating without needing to leave the village
For more options, St Paul's Bay, Bugibba, and Qawra are 5-10 minutes away by car with a much wider restaurant scene.
Transport and Getting Around
Buses
Xemxija is on Malta's main northern bus corridor. Routes include:
| Route | Destination | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| 41, 42, 44 | Valletta | Every 15-30 min |
| 222 | Sliema/St Julian's via Buġibba | Every 20 min |
| X1 | Airport express | Hourly |
| 221 | Cirkewwa (Gozo ferry) | Every 30 min |
The bus to Valletta takes about 35-40 minutes. To Sliema, about 50 minutes. Commuting is doable but not quick — factor this into your decision if you work in the Sliema/Valletta corridor.
Driving
By car, Xemxija is well-connected:
- Valletta: 20 min
- Sliema: 25 min
- Airport: 25 min
- Gozo ferry (Cirkewwa): 20 min
- Mellieha: 10 min
Parking is significantly easier here than in Sliema or St Julian's — a real quality-of-life advantage.
Rental Prices in Xemxija
Xemxija is one of the more affordable coastal areas in Malta. Prices are lower than Sliema and St Julian's by roughly 30-40%, while still offering sea views and beach access.
| Property Type | Monthly Rent (approx.) |
|---|---|
| Studio (seafront) | from €950 |
| 2-bedroom apartment | €1,250–€1,350 |
| 3-bedroom apartment | from €1,700 |
These are long-term rental prices based on current live listings. Short-term and summer rentals cost significantly more. Sea-view and seafront properties sit at the top of each range.
Browse rental properties in Xemxija to see current listings and exact prices.
What's it Like to Live Here?
The pros
- Peaceful — far quieter than Sliema, St Julian's, or even Bugibba
- Affordable — one of the best price-to-quality ratios on the coast
- Nature on your doorstep — countryside walks, secluded bays, Simar Nature Reserve nearby
- Sea views — many apartments have views of Xemxija Bay and the open sea
- Parking — genuinely available, unlike central Malta
- Historical character — the heritage trail and old fortifications give the area depth
- Good transport links — on the main northern bus corridor
The cons
- Limited nightlife — if you want bars and clubs, you'll be travelling to St Julian's or Valletta
- Fewer restaurants — enough for daily life, but less variety than the main tourist areas
- Longer commute — 35-50 minutes to Valletta/Sliema by bus
- Less walkable — you'll want a car or scooter for convenience
- Quieter in winter — some businesses close outside tourist season
Who is Xemxija best for?
Xemxija suits people who want coastal living at a reasonable price without the intensity of Malta's busier areas:
- Remote workers who don't commute daily and value peace and sea views
- Couples looking for an affordable seaside apartment
- Nature lovers who prefer walking trails to nightlife
- Budget-conscious expats who still want to be on the coast rather than inland
If you need to be in the office in Sliema every day, or if nightlife is a priority, look at Gzira or St Julian's instead. But if you work from home and want a calm, affordable base with beaches and history, Xemxija is hard to beat.
Xemxija vs St Paul's Bay
These two areas are right next to each other but feel quite different:
| Factor | Xemxija | St Paul's Bay |
|---|---|---|
| Vibe | Quiet, residential, village feel | Busy, touristy, lively |
| Beaches | Xemxija Bay, Mistra Bay | Rocky shoreline |
| Restaurants | A few quality options | Many, varied |
| Nightlife | Minimal | Some bars, nothing wild |
| Rent prices | Slightly lower | Slightly higher |
| Parking | Easier | Harder |
The short version: Xemxija is the quiet residential end of St Paul's Bay. If you want the quieter life, pick Xemxija. If you want more amenities within walking distance, pick St Paul's Bay proper.
Nearby Areas Worth Considering
- St Paul's Bay — busier, more amenities, a bit pricier
- Bugibba — tourist hub, lively in summer, affordable rents
- Qawra — family-friendly, promenade, budget-friendly
- Mellieha — Malta's northern tip, best beaches, family-oriented
FAQ
Is Xemxija a good place to live?
Yes — if you value peace, affordability, and coastal living. It's quieter and cheaper than Sliema or St Julian's, with genuine sea views and countryside access. The trade-off is a longer commute and fewer restaurants and bars.
How far is Xemxija from Valletta?
About 20 minutes by car, 35-40 minutes by bus. The X1 airport express also stops at Xemxija.
Is Xemxija expensive?
No. Rental prices in Xemxija are 30-40% lower than Sliema and St Julian's. Studios start around €950/month and 2-bedroom apartments from €1,250/month for a long-term lease.
Does Xemxija have a beach?
Yes — Xemxija Bay has a small sandy/rocky beach. Mistra Bay nearby is rocky but beautiful. Malta's best sandy beaches (Golden Bay, Mellieha Bay) are within 10-15 minutes by car.
How do you pronounce Xemxija?
"Shem-she-ya." The X in Maltese is pronounced like "sh."
Is Xemxija good for families?
It can be. The area is safe, relatively quiet, and has access to beaches and nature. The main consideration is school proximity — international schools are mostly in the central/southern part of Malta, which means a longer school run.